When I was six years old, my mother took me to see a matinee production of My Fair Lady at the Kennedy Center, in Washington DC where I grew up. I vividly remember the lights dimming, the curtain rising, and the feeling of being transported to another world of extraordinary human talent. It’s fair to say that afternoon changed my life, and I’ve been chasing the high ever since. Having just spent the summer traveling throughout India attempting to write my own musical–a Bollywood meets Broadway mashup of Indian classical and folk sounds about the Buddha–I can’t help but reflect that embarking on this fellowship journey feels a lot like an opening number. In my humble opinion, one of the great opening numbers of the musical theatre canon is “Good Morning Baltimore,” from the Tony and Grammy award winning Hairspray. Hairspray opens with protagonist Tracy Turnblad introducing the audience to her world, 1960s racially segregated Baltimore, and her dream of earning a coveted spot on a teen dance television show. As it just so happens, Bangalore and Baltimore have the same number of syllables, so I thought I would channel my inner Tracy and reflect on my first two weeks here in an homage to “Good Morning Baltimore.”
“Good Morning Bangalore”
Oh, oh, oh
Woke up today
Somehow already running late
Oh, oh, oh
Hungry for dosa
And filter coffee
But I’ve got traffic to beat
The insane congestion
Makes me question
How the people here
Get anything done
Oh, oh, oh
Grab an auto
Short sleeves
‘Cuz the weather is so perfect
Good morning Bangalore
There’s always a pooja next door
Around the corner is a brewery
But honestly this traffic is killing me
Good morning Bangalore
I know you’ve got much in store
By the end of this 10-month journey
I’ll be a Bangalorean, hopefully
Oh, oh, oh
I don’t have change
They say why can’t you pay with UPI*
Oh, oh, oh
There’s always a paan walla to the rescue*
Praise allah, thank you!
The cows on the street
Keep staring at me
They seem to say
“Lord Krishna’s looking out for you”
So, oh, oh
It won’t take long
‘Cause in no time I’ll earn my dues
Good morning Bangalore
Scream the kids with a deafening roar*
On my field visits to the schools
Why can’t I convince them that I’m cool
Good morning Bangalore
I know you’ve got so much in store
By the end of this 10-month journey
I’ll be a Bangalorean, hopefully
I’ll know every park
Have tried all the chaat
Don’t worry I’ll only risk if it’s cooked hot
And trust I’ve stocked up on Odomos spray
No mosquito bites for me
I can’t get dengue!*
(I can’t get dengue)
So, oh, oh
I’m getting the hang
The trees in the “Garden City” keep me sane
Oh, oh, oh
It’s almost 5:00 and my phone my rings
Europa’s calling me!*
She says meet at Bob’s?*
Let’s have a drink and goss
The absolute best way to end the day
So oh, oh
Don’t make me wait
One more moment in this crazy traffic
I love you Bangalore
Every day’s a doozy for sure
But every night feels like a party
I’ll figure out work/life balance, don’t worry
And I promise Bangalore
That by the end
I’ll have a decades worth of lore
And speak perfect Kannada and Hindi
Can we be best friends already?
Bangalore and me
Bangalore and me
(Best friends, already?)
Bangalore and me!
*UPI – As a foreigner, I can only use UPI to pay registered businesses. Most auto-wallas have personal accounts.
*Paan Walla – In my never ending quest for small bills, I’ve come to rely heavily on street-corner paan wallas.
*Roar – Whenever I walk into a classroom the children greet me with a unanimous “Good Morning Sir” that is so loud it sounds like it is going to blow the roof off.
*Dengue – My first time in South Asia I got dengue, and have heard that getting it a second time could be fatal.
*Europa – AIF Co-Fellow also placed in Bangalore.
*Bob’s Bar – A famous chain of local Bangalore bars.


