I’m fortunate to be able to participate in this conversation, thanks to my position as an AIF Fellow at the Dakshin Foundation, Ganjam, Odisha. The interactions happened due to the presence of Magata Behera, Village head of Purnabandha and community staff for Dakshin Foundation.
Tattoos and piercings have long served as unique cultural symbols and identities, particularly for women, whether within the Apatani tribe in Arunachal Pradesh or here in the villages of Ganjam, Odisha. As someone fascinated by body modifications and intrigued by the stories behind each poke of the needle, this blog recounts my interactions with women in the Purnabandha village about the beautiful nose ornamentations and piercings they adorn.
The memory of when they first acquired their piercings was hazy for all; it happened unceremoniously when they were young girls of eight or ten years old. Often, it was decided by their parents, rather than being a conscious decision of their own. They were quite puzzled when I asked if they wanted it, if they ever expressed a desire against it. Even though there wasn’t a specific age for the piercings, they were typically done before marriage, for most, before they reached puberty.
One woman shared that she had smaller studs in one side of her nose when her marriage was arranged, but she had to change them a week before her wedding at the demand of her in-laws. She was married at the tender age of fourteen.
Various narratives explain why their noses were adorned with big gold piercings at such a young age. For some, it was the only ‘gift’ their parents could provide them before marrying them off. In these parts where family wealth was limited and the sea had greater claims than humans, the gold piercings were the only inheritance women received from their parents. One woman mentioned that nose rings were less expensive than longer gold chains found in other parts of India, making them more affordable and economical. When a woman got married, her nose piercings often served as her only form of wealth and security. There were multiple stories of how they sold their nose rings during times of financial trouble. One woman shared that she sold her nose rings to feed and educate her children after her husband had an accident at sea. Another woman, who spent her life working in the dry fish market, considered her nose piercings as her only personal wealth.
Interestingly, the gold and piercings are only passed down from mothers to daughters, during weddings and in death ceremonies. After a woman’s death, her daughter removes all the gold and jewellery before the last rites, as the son has no claim over them. One woman shared that she has three daughters, and after her death, each daughter will inherit her jewellery, which amounts to approximately 30 thousand each. She feels relieved that this will be her last help and blessing to her daughters, although sometimes daughters inherit before such events. Another woman, who was part of the discussion, wore piercings for the longest time until recently. She removed them and sold them to make a thin gold chain for her daughter during her marriage because they couldn’t afford new ornaments, and her daughter never had nose piercings to inherit their family heirloom.
These women, in their late fifties and sixties, are some of the last generations to have such body art and piercings. Their daughters, in their thirties or forties, if at all, have nose piercings on only one side and wear tiny studs. Their granddaughters refuse to entertain the idea of piercings. When asked about the reasons behind it, they said it is no longer considered beautiful. They have bigger aspirations and have access to TV and actresses who don’t have nose piercings or traditional tattoos on their arms. One woman pointed to her granddaughter, who was watching a reel on Instagram, planning to go to the city soon. She will never want to carry this as part of her identity. Another woman said she feels sad but also relieved that the newer generations could decide for themselves. With fewer people having such piercings and tattoos, the artists who made them in the communities have also gradually disappeared.
As we were sitting on the verandah of one woman, we compared our tattoos. They had intricate designs and patterns made with needles and poked with a nail and stone. I had a cat and three fishes. Though their tattoos have faded, their sun-tanned and wrinkled skin made them less sharp. They were content knowing they wouldn’t go empty-handed after death. When they mentioned this line in passing, I was quite confused. They explained that when they die, they leave behind all their material possessions, but they can show their tattoos and the marks on their skin to Yama, the lord guarding the gates after death. Hopefully, he will be pleased and let them enter the gates.
There are other references to mythology and the influence of their practice of wearing nose piercings. One woman shared how they would be teased by being called Shurpanakha, sister of Ravana, whose nose was cut by Lakshmana in the Ramayana. Hence, only women who didn’t have a nose like her or who were bold enough like her would not wear nose piercings.
While beauty standards have changed, the desire for a sharper nose has always been constant in the community. Some mentioned they wore nose piercings to have a sharper nose or for the illusion of having one. In fact, there is a term for a flatter, broader non-pierced nose called ‘bhurka naki’. It would be interesting to ponder if there is a correlation between caste and the desire to have a sharper nose in India.
As we sat and mulled over the disappearance of such piercings in the community, they gazed at me and asked with utmost concern why I was not wearing any gold? I should change my silver to gold before getting married. We shared the heartiest laugh together.
***All the photos were taken with consent, and approval was taken on which photo they would like to be shown. ***
